Ski Racing - January 7, 2010

Unlike hydrocarbon race waxes, which have carbon molecules with neutrally charged hydrogen atoms, fluorocarbons contain nega-tively-charged fluorine atoms. They repel water more efficiently, reducing wet friction between the base and the snow. They also help keep bases cleaner in dirty snow by repelling dirt particles, which, like fluorine atoms, are negatively charged.

Fluorocarbon waxes are offered in specific temperature ranges as well as a range of formulations.

Low-fluoro (2% to 3% fluoro content) for low-humidity conditions when it’s hard to make a snowball.

Mid-fluoro (3% to 5% fluoro content) for mid-humidity conditions when it’s easier to pack a snowball.

High-fluoro (5% to 15% fluoro content) for high-humidity conditions when it’s easy to pack a wet snowball.

Fluoro waxes are best applied atop their hydrocarbon race wax counterparts. Assuming that humidity levels warrant it (and your budget allows it), you can also apply layers of increasing fluoro concentrations over your hydrocarbon wax — for example, low fluoro wax layer over hydrocarbon wax layer, then higher fluoro over the low fluoro, etc.

Race fluoro overlays

Fluorocarbon Overlays

One-hundred-percent fluoro-carbon overlays are applied last, assuming that snow conditions warrant their use. These are available in a variety of block, powder or liquid forms in tem-perature-specific formulations.

Powders

Of all the overlays, powders require the greatest expertise and are best applied indoors where wind won’t interfere. They’re sprinkled evenly over the ski or snowboard base, then melted into underlying wax layers using a hot wax iron, roto-cork or felt polishing block. Finish with a stiff nylon or horsehair brush followed by a soft nylon polishing brush for best results.

Using an iron to melt in powder yields the greatest wax durability, but it is essential to adhere to the manufacturer’s temperature recommendations and application guidelines to avoid base damage and the potential of creating lung-damaging fumes. Traditionally used by experienced technicians for maximum wax dura-

Types of friction

Wet friction: Water absorbed by a dry base creates drag.

Dirt friction: Sharp or sticky contaminates in the snowpack create drag.

Static friction: Static “cling” is generated when a base slides over dry snow.

Dry friction: Sharp snow crystals literally tear at P-tex bases to create drag.

bility on long icy World Cup speed courses and longer nordic races, it’s an unnecessarily risky application for most juniors, masters, coaches or parents to attempt. A safer alternative for this process is to use a felt polishing block or roto-cork to rub and melt in overlays, creating heat via friction to melt fluoros into the base. Although they don’t generate temperatures as high as an iron to yield equally durable results, these techniques effectively bypass the safety and health concerns of ironing while still providing the same fluoro speed benefits for later on the racecourse. Blocks These are 100-percent powders that are poured into a mold and compressed under extreme pressure (1,000-plus pounds). This process not only transforms them into solid form, but also crunches fluoro particles into a smaller size, which melts into bases at a lower temperature than powders. Fluoro blocks are applied by rubbing a thin, even layer onto a ski or snowboard base, then melting in with a natural hand or roto-cork. They are then finished with a soft nylon polishing brush. Liquids & Pastes Liquids and pastes are usually the fluid equivalent of powders or blocks, at least when offered by the same manufacturer. They contain fluoro particles smaller than those used in powders or solids, which, combined with an evaporative solvent, allows them to permeate deeply into underlying base material and waxes. They’re sprayed or wiped on with a lint-free cloth, allowed sufficient time to dry, then hand-corked and brushed with a nylon polishing brush. The wide array of modern waxes offer solutions to the problem of friction unimagined 150 years ago. Making a wax choice can seem overwhelming. We recommend doing some research, picking a wax system and sticking with it (at least for a while) and learning it well. Reducing some of the variables can help you achieve repeatable results.

Choosing the Right Wax Consider the following conditions before deciding on the best race wax for the day:

1. Snow temperature: Measure with a thermometer inserted within the top quarter-inch of the snowpack for accurate results and to determine which temperature range wax to use.

2. Air temperature: Usually fairly close to the
snow temperature, but if it’s significantly warmer, it
will tend to warm up the snow, which can affect your
choice of wax by race start time.
3. Snow crystals: If snow crystals on the race
course are new and sharp, you need a harder wax
to prevent crystals from digging into the base and
creating drag. If crystals are rounder and wetter, a
softer wax will provide greater water repellency and,
therefore, faster glide.
4. Humidity: This will determine if you want low,
medium or high fluoro waxes. The higher the humid-
ity, the higher you usually want the fluoro content in
the wax to be.
5. Wind: If the air is dry, wind will tend to decrease
moisture in the snow. If it’s foggy or moist, wind can
add moisture to the snow.
6. Solar exposure: If critical flat sections on the
course are in the shade, wax colder. If they’re in the
sun, wax warmer.
7. Miscellaneous: There’s always more consider-
ations you can factor in, such as graphite additives
to combat static conditions in very dry snow, wax
hardeners for very abrasive ice or manmade snow,
etc. How far you want to take it is up to you, but at
least pay careful attention to the first 3 or 4 factors
if you want to finish on the podium.