Here, I’ve over-filled the gouge to account for the
shrinkage in cooling.
The base is
level, and the
gouge is gone.
You’ll see a
color in the fill
zone. Keep an
eye on your
repair after a
day or two of
skiing to be
sure it will hold.
If not, you’ll
need a plastic
base weld at
Step 5: Fill in
Before you light the P-tex repair strip, take a moment and clean up your area, paying special attention to anything
that could catch on fire or be damaged from a flame or drippings of hot P-tex. Obvious things are paper towels and
base cleaner, but also have a plan for where you are going to set down the hot, burning repair stick. Once you set it
down and blow it out, the hot end will still be molten and will drip.
Then, light the repair strip. Hold it carefully so that the flame heats up the end as quickly as possible. It will immediately start to drip — I like to have a section of the ski near the repair area that is well covered in tape, and I’ll let it
drip onto the tape. Your goal is to flow the material into the repair, not drip it. It takes a few moments for the P-tex to
get hot enough to flow (like a water faucet that is just barely running, but not dripping). Once it starts to flow, move
it over the repair, filling in slowly so that the P-tex sits above the base.
Step 6: Cool
Let your repair cool and harden completely. I like to give it a good 15 minutes. That’s the perfect amount of time to
take care of the other ski, or another pair.
Step 7: Level
Now you will level your repair, using your sharp scraper and possibly even your razor blade. My favorite way of
doing this actually involves a simple machined true bar that is sold by Wintersteiger — its edge is machined razor-sharp, but it has enough mass to pull it through a P-tex repair.
Step 8: Evaluate
How does it look? Depending on how big the gouge was, you might need to go back to step 5 and repeat one or
even two more times. Even a perfectly done repair in a high-wear zone (next to the edge, underfoot) most likely
won’t hold up over time.
Step 9: Clean Up
Remove the tape from your base. I also like to pass the sharp scraper down the ski several times to “blend” slightly
uneven areas from the repair.
Step 10: Daily Maintenence